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Health Benefits Associated With Spays & Neuters

Spaying or neutering pets is a common procedure, and most pet owners have probably had some experience with having the procedure done on animals they have owned.

Aside from the inconvenience of heat cycles and/or roaming tom cats, there are medical benefits associated to having your pet spayed or neutered. The direct health benefits of spaying or neutering are significant for the pet. If female pets are spayed before their first heat cycle, the risk of developing mammary tumors (breast cancer) is significantly reduced.

Spaying female pets eliminates the risk of pyometra, an infection of the uterus. This disease can be very serious, even fatal, in female pets. Male pets can also benefit. Neutering eliminates the risk of testicular cancer and reduces the risk of prostate disease.

Spaying or neutering can indirectly help prolong a pet's life as well. When pets are spayed or neutered, their tendencies to roam or fight are greatly reduced. This prevents the pets from getting lost, stolen, hit by cars, or contracting a contagious disease.

Cats that fight are at risk of contracting a serious disease called feline leukemia. This disease, which affects the immune system of the cat, can be passed from feline to feline through saliva or blood. Cats also run the risk of contracting feline immune deficiency virus when they fight. This disease is very similar to human HIV. It can lie dormant in the cat for quite a while, and when activated, can cause the cat's immune system to function improperly.

Spaying or neutering dogs can help keep them under control. Dogs that have not been spayed or neutered are more likely to wander away from home. While running loose, they have a chance of being hit by a car, getting lost, stolen, or taken to the animal shelter.

Even though spays and neuters are considered routine surgery, there is nothing routine about any abdominal surgery performed under general anesthesia. Most veterinarians consider spays and neuters to be major surgery, especially when spaying older animals that have had several heat cycles or have had litters.

Veterinarians and humane societies advise pet owners to have their pets spayed or neutered. The medical advantages have been proven. Complications resulting from these procedures are rare and pets recover from surgery very quickly. Often the day after surgery, animals are bright and alert, sometimes seeming as if nothing had ever happened.

The cost of the procedure varies depending upon the species, sex, size, and age of the pet.

Despite their reputation for being "low maintenance" creatures, cats are nonetheless a huge responsibility. Cats are fascinating creatures with very distinctive, and instinctive, behaviors. They are innately curious, mischievous and independent. They love to climb and stalk, they scratch, and they often mark their territory. They can also be very reserved and dignified. Whether your cat is a stray adopted from a shelter or a purebred, it still deserves and requires the same care and attention. Owning a cat requires you to give understanding, affection, shelter, food and general care. In return, you receive loving companionship. Modern research has shown that owning a pet can have measurable health benefits. By providing responsible and quality care for your cat, you are also giving yourself the benefit of a healthier life!

Bringing your new cat home

Being prepared is the name of the game. Before bringing your new playmate and companion home, you should be sure to have basic supplies set up and ready for its arrival.

Food - Because the food you select going to be your cat's sole source of nutrition, it can have a large impact on his or her health and well being. Ask friends who own cats, or speak to your veterinarian before deciding which food to choose. Often times your cat might choose for you! It is important to note what kind of food your cat was being fed previously, especially if he or she was thriving. If a food change is necessary, gradually transition to the new diet over a 7 to 10 day period by adding more of the new food and less of the old food until the transition is complete. Contrary to popular belief, cats should not drink milk. Milk may often cause diarrhea due to lactose intolerance. If you have a very young kitten who needs milk, specially formulated kitten milk replacement is available through your veterinarian.

Litter Box Materials - Purchase a litter box, cat litter and scoop. Make sure to choose a pan large enough for a full-grown cat and deep enough so your cat does not scatter litter when he or she scratches it. If you're bringing home a kitten, make sure the box is small enough so he or she can access it easily. There are a variety of litters available, so you may have to try a few different kinds to determine which one you and your cat like best. If you have more than one cat, a general rule of thumb is to provide one more litter box than the number of cats in the household. For example, if you have four cats, you should have five litter boxes. Even in a one cat household, it is a good idea to have a litter box on each floor.

Bed - From the beginning, you should determine where you would like your cat to sleep. It can be very difficult to break the habit of sharing your bed once the habit is formed, especially for the cat! Generally, cats like small, quiet places to curl up and snooze. For warmth, try lining a cardboard box, with sides high enough to block a draft, with an old cushion or any soft, washable material. To encourage your cat to use the bed, put an old item of your clothing in the bed to help him or her feel secure. Often times, cats will choose their own beds, such as laundry baskets full of laundry, so it is wise to establish where your cat can and cannot sleep before finding cat hair all over your clothes!

Carrier - These come in various styles and materials. You should select one that is large enough so your cat can comfortably stand up and turn around when he or she is full-grown. It should be well ventilated, secure and easy to clean.

Scratching Post - Scratching is one of the most innate cat behaviors. Scratching helps cats clean away dead scales from their nails and allows them to mark their territory (both visually and with their scent). Having a scratching post in the house provides your cat with an acceptable target for his or her scratching, as opposed to your new couch!. The post should be sturdy and tall enough so your adult cat can stretch out to full length. There are a number of colors, styles and materials for scratching posts, so it should be very easy to find one that suits your home. If you notice your cat snagging or getting stuck to the scratching post (or your clothes!), it might be time to trim his or her nails. Ask your veterinarian to demonstrate the proper technique and to give you tips on proper nail care.

I.D./Collar - Even an indoor cat should wear a collar with an up-to-date identification tag in the event that he or she escapes outdoors. Make sure the collar is made of flexible or breakaway material to lessen the likelihood of choking if it becomes entangled in something. You may also want to explore another, more reliable identification option with your veterinarian, such as microchipping.

Grooming Tools - Cats are notoriously clean and spend many hours a day grooming themselves. It is still important; however, that you regularly groom your cat to help remove excess hair and dander. This helps lessen the likelihood of hairballs. Establishing grooming as part of your cat's routine and rewarding him or her after each "session" makes it a pleasant experience for both you and the cat.

Toys - Cats play with ANYTHING that moves, rustles, rolls or sways. Many of these "toys" are safe household items such as empty plastic thread spools, unshelled walnuts, cardboard toilet paper tubes or waxed paper balls. Cat nip toys, as well as feathers or something with bells, work well, too! Although cats tend to enjoy playing with string, yarn or tinsel, ingesting any of these could cause severe gastrointestinal problems.

Socialization of your new cat

When bringing your cat or kitten home, make sure the house is quiet and allow your cat to settle in and explore without too much interference. Keep your new cat or kitten confined to a particular part of the house or a particular room and definitely keep him or her indoors for the first few weeks. Once your cat has settled into its new home, the socialization process should begin. Introduce him or her to neighbors and visitors, allowing time for the cat to get acquainted with all the normal household noises and activities. Other pets should be introduced to him or her slowly and only under close supervision. It may take some time for a pet to get used to the new arrival "invading" the house and realize that the new cat is staying!

Regular Health Care

Establishing regular health care is an important element of your cat's well being. Regardless of your cat's age or where he or she was acquired, regular veterinary exams are crucial. These visits generally include vaccinations, inspection of the eyes, ears, mouth, abdomen and coat, as well as heart and breathing patterns. It is during these examinations that questions about your cat's health can be answered, even if it is a minor issue.

Dental exams are also an important part of your cat's routine health care. Plaque buildup is the most common dental problem in cats and can lead to deposits of hardened calculus on the tooth surface. If plaque is left unchecked, it can cause inflammation of the gums. This condition can worsen until the teeth eventually loosen and fall out. To prevent this, talk to your veterinarian about regular dental care for your cat.

Unless you have a pet that you intend to use for breeding, it is very important to have your cat spayed or neutered. Check with your veterinarian to determine the best time for the procedure. This helps prevent unwanted litters, manage pet overpopulation, prevent undesirable behaviors (urinating or "spraying") and may improve your cat's overall disposition. Spaying also eliminates the risk of uterine infections, lessens the chance of hormonal imbalances and reduces the risk of mammary cancer. Neutering lessens the likelihood of testicular cancer and unwanted behaviors such as aggression and "roaming."

Holiday Time

If you are traveling, you need to consider how best to care for your cat while you are away. Cats can be safely left at home alone for up to two or three days, provided they are left with enough food and fresh water and have access to a clean litter box. If you decide to leave your cat home alone, it's a good idea to have a neighbor or pet sitter check in on him or her daily. If traveling for a long period of time, consider hiring a pet sitter or board your cat at a pet boarding facility. Ask your veterinarian to recommend a respected place to board your cat and be sure to ask for a tour of the facility. It is important to see where your cat is going to be living while you are away.

Ultimately, as you get to know your cat and form a lasting bond and friendship, you will become the best judge of what's best for him or her. Providing a caring and loving home will help to ensure the health and well-being of your cat, which will, in turn, benefit your health and well-being. If a question regarding the care of your cat arises, never hesitate to call your veterinarian for advice.

You see a cute, tiger-striped kitten with white paws and green eyes, just begging for your attention. Or maybe it's a handsome, tail-wagging Labrador mix who couldn't be more friendly.

If you're like most of us, falling in love with a pet is easy. And no wonder! Sharing your home with a four-legged friend can be one of life's greatest joys. Dogs, cats, and other pets give us unconditional loyalty and acceptance, provide constant companionship, and even help relieve stress after a hard day's work.

Adopting a pet, though, is a big decision. Dogs and cats are living beings who require lots of time, money, and commitment - over 15 years' worth in many cases. Pet ownership can be rewarding, but only if you think through your decision before you adopt a companion.

Things to Consider

The fact that you're thinking about adopting a pet from an animal Shelter, rescue league or humane society means you're a responsible and caring person. But before you make that final decision to bring a furry friend into your life, take a moment to think about these questions:

Why do you want a pet?

It's amazing how many people fail to ask themselves this simple question before they get a pet. Adopting a pet just because the kids have been asking for a puppy usually ends up being a big mistake. Don't forget that pets may be with you even after your children leave home.

Do you have time for a pet?

Dogs, cats, and other animal companions cannot be ignored just because you're tired or busy. They require food, water, exercise, care, and companionship every day of every year. Many animals have been given up because their owners didn't realize how much time it took to properly care for them.

Can you afford a pet?

The monetary costs of pet ownership can be quite high. Licenses, training classes, veterinary care, grooming, toys, food, kitty litter, and other expenses add up quickly.

Are you prepared to deal with special problems that only a pet can cause?

Fleas, scratched-up furniture and accidents from animals who aren't yet housetrained are just a few of the inconveniences that you will face.

Can you have a pet where you live?

Many rental communities don't allow pets, others have restrictions. Make the necessary inquiries before you bring a pet home.

Is it a good time for you to adopt a pet?

If you're a student, in the military, or travel frequently as part of your work, waiting until you settle down may be a wise choice.

Are your living arrangements suitable for the animal you have in mind?

Adopting an energetic dog or a breed that is unsuitable to share your small apartment (a Border collie), for example, is not a good idea. Choose an animal who will be comfortable in your surroundings.

Who will care for your pet if you go on vacation?

You'll need either reliable friends and neighbors, or money to pay for a boarding kennel or pet-sitting service.

Will you be a responsible pet owner?

Having your pet spayed or neutered, obeying community leash and licensing laws, and keeping identification tags on your pets are all part of being a responsible pet owner. Of course, giving your pet love, companionship, exercise, a healthy diet, and regular veterinary care are other essentials.

Finally, are you prepared to keep and care for the pet for his or her entire lifetime?

When you adopt a pet, you are making a commitment to care for the animal for his or her lifetime.

Get an Animal for Life

Sure, it's a long list of questions. But a quick stroll through the animal shelter will help you understand why answering them before you adopt a pet is so important.

Please, think before you adopt. Sharing your life with a companion animal can bring incredible rewards, but only if you're willing to make the necessary commitments of time, money, responsibility, and love—for the life of the pet.

Much of the information for this article was contributed by the Humane Society of the US.

Owners who want to better understand their canine companions must recognize that dogs see the world from a different visual perspective. The differences begin with the structure of the eye. We have a good idea what dogs see because we know the make-up of the retina of a dog’s eye.

The retina is the light sensitive portion of the eye. This structure is located in the back of the inside of the eyeball. The retina contains two types of light sensitive cells: rods and cones. Cones provide color perception and detailed sight, while rods detect motion and vision in dim light. Dogs have rod-dominated retinas that allow them to see well in the dark. Along with superior night vision, dogs have better motion visibility than humans have. However, because their retinas’ contain only about one-tenth the concentration of cones that humans have, dogs do not see colors as humans do.

Dogs see like a color-blind human. Many people think that a person who is red/green color blind cannot see any color, but there are variations of color blindness. Most people have vision that is trichromatic (three-color variations). People who are red/green color blind are dichromatic (two color variations). Dogs’ retinas can distinguish two colors. These colors are blue-violet and yellow. Dogs can also differentiate between shades of gray. Dogs are unable to recognize green, yellow, orange, and red.

Dogs use other cues such as smell, texture, brightness, and position rather than relying solely on color. Seeing-eye dogs, for example, may not distinguish between a green or red stoplight; they look at the brightness and position of the light. This, along with the flow and noise of traffic, tell the dog that it is the right time to cross the street.

How a dog’s eyes are set determines the field of view as well as depth perception. Prey species tend to have eyes located on the sides of their head. This gives the animals an increased field of view and allows them to see approaching predators. Predator species, like humans and dogs, have eyes set close together. Human eyes are set straight forward while dog eyes, depending on the breed, are usually set at a 20 degree angle. This angle increases the field of view and therefore increases the peripheral vision of the dog.

Increased peripheral vision compromises the amount of binocular vision. Binocular vision occurs where the field of view of each eye overlaps. Binocular vision is necessary for depth perception. The wider-set eyes of dogs have less overlap and less binocular vision, thus, less depth perception). Dogs’ depth perception is best when they look straight ahead. This is not an ideal situation, as their nose often interferes. Predators need binocular vision as a survival tool. Binocular vision aids in jumping, leaping, catching, and many other activities fundamental to predators.

In addition to having less binocular vision than humans have, dogs also have less visual acuity. Humans with perfect eyesight are said to have 20/20 vision. This means that we can distinguish letters or objects at a distance of 20 feet. Dogs typically have 20/75 vision. What this means is that they must be 20 feet from an object to see it as well as a human standing 75 feet away. Certain breeds have better visual acuity. Labradors, commonly used as seeing-eye dogs, are bred for better eyesight and may have vision that is closer to 20/20.

If you’re silently standing across the field from your dog, don’t expect him or her to recognize you. He’ll recognize you when you do some sort of motion particular to yourself. He may also recognize your presence by his outstanding sense of smell and/or hearing. Because of the large number of rods in the retina, dogs see moving objects much better than they see stationary objects. Motion sensitivity has been noted as the critical aspect of canine vision. Much of dog behavior deals with posture and appropriateness. Small changes in your body posture mean a lot to your dog. Dog owners need to modify training based on this fact. If you want your dog to perform an action based on a silent cue, we suggest using a wide sweeping hand and arm motion in order to cue your dog.

When dogs go blind, owners often wonder if the dogs’ quality of life has diminished to the point where they are no longer happy. Humans deal well with being blind, and humans are much more dependent on their eyes than are dogs. Blind dogs lead happy lives as long as they are comfortable. The owner may need to make some adjustments in the pet’s environment. Some of these adjustments include fencing the yard, taking leashed walks, and not leaving unusual objects in the dog’s normal pathways. Obviously, most blind dogs cannot navigate stairs very well. When blind dogs are in their normal environment, most people don’t know they are blind.

Pet owners and their canine and feline companions aren't the only ones who look forward to the warm weather. As summer approaches, pet owners must once again be on guard against fleas, the prolific parasites that can keep dogs, cats and humans alike scratching for months on end. In the northern United States, fleas are prevalent during the warm summer months, though the pesky parasites cause trouble year-round for pet owners in the south.

Keeping fleas off your pet and out of your home is about more than just stopping your pet's constant scratching. Aside from itchy, irritating bites, fleas can cause the skin disease flea allergy dermatitis in both cats and dogs, as well as miliary dermatitis in cats. Fleas can also transmit Dipylidium caninum, or double-pore tapeworm, a common tapeworm found in dogs and cats, as well as a number of other diseases.

Even if fleas aren't on your pet right now, they may be living in your home. There are four stages in a flea's life cycle: egg, larva, pupa and adult. It is only during the adult stage that the flea actually lives on an animal; during the other three stages, the flea lives in the surround environment. Immature fleas usually account for about 90 to 95 percent of the total flea population in a home. A good rule of thumb is that for every flea you find on your pet, there are about 100 more immature fleas living in the surrounding environment.

The average flea can live for anywhere between 12 days and 180 days, though the typical lifespan of a flea lasts three to six weeks. But even in that short amount of time, an adult female can lay more than 1,000 eggs, which means that even only one flea can result in big problems.

How can you tell if fleas have invaded your home and latched on to your pet? Scratching is often the first sign. During feeding, fleas inject saliva into the skin of the animal; this saliva contains proteins that cause allergic skin reactions, which leads to bouts of rubbing and scratching. Fleas are most commonly found on dogs and cats around the base of the tail and on the belly. If you suspect your pet has fleas but cannot see them, check for "flea dirt." This is the excrement of the flea and consists of a mix of feces and dried blood. To find flea dirt, have your pet lay on the ground and place a piece of white paper underneath him or her. Brush your pet and let the paper collect any dirt or debris. Next, add a few drops of water to the dirt on the paper; if dried blood is present, the water will take on a reddish color, indicating the presence of flea dirt.

If you are experiencing a heavy infestation of fleas, treating your pet is sometimes not enough. Home and yard treatments are also available to keep fleas at bay. Effective flea control measures include vacuuming several times each week and washing your pet's bedding once a week. For particularly bad infestations, try using an insect spray or fogger a few times. Outside your home, sprays can be used to hit fleas where they live. Fleas thrive in moist, shady areas, such as under bushes, mulch, porches and crawl spaces. Target these areas to reduce flea populations.

During the last several years, significant improvements have been made to flea control products. Oral and topical medications containing insect growth regulators (IGR) and insect development inhibitors (IDI) disrupt the flea's maturation process and stop infestations before they begin. These treatments are less toxic for pets and the environment and more effective in controlling fleas.

Topical treatments are more effective than past products because they remain on the surface of the pet's skin, where they are toxic only to fleas, rather than absorbed into the pet's bloodstream. There are many flea products and your veterinarian can recommend the product that is best-suited for your pet. Flea control products designed for dogs should not be used on cats and could result in serious illness or death. If you have multiple dogs, keep the dogs separated for an hour or two after applying each treatment in order to avoid oral ingestion.

1. I check my dog's stool in the yard everyday and do not see any worms; therefore, he / she does not have intestinal parasites.
   True
   False
2. Which of the following is NOT a dog vaccine?
   1. Rabies
   2. Parvovirus
   3. Distemper
   4. FeLV
3. Of the following, which is the BEST way to keep my dog's teeth and gums healthy?
   1. Rawhide
   2. Brushing with a vet approved dental paste and soft tooth brush
   3. Chew toys
   4. Tartar control diets
4. My dog has an ear infection. The best treatment is?
   1. Use a prescription from my other dog's ear infection
   2. See your veterinarian immediately
   3. Clean the ears with baby oil or rubbing
   4. Clean the ears with a cotton swab
5. Which breed is known for its dark purple tongue?
   1. Papillon
   2. Chow Chow
   3. Puli
   4. Irish Wolfhound
6. My dog only goes out for walks in the yard, so he doesn't need to be on a heartworm preventative.
   True
   False
7. My housebroken dog is suddenly urinating in the house. What could this possibly mean?
   1. Bladder infection
   2. Diabetes
   3. Kidney failure
   4. Any of these
8. My dog scoots his rear on the floor everyday after going to the bathroom. This is just a silly behavior problem.
   True
   False
9. The best way to treat my older dog's achy joints is?
   1. Tylenol
   2. Acetaminophen
   3. An approved canine anti-inflammatory drug
   4. Any of these are fine
10. When is the usual time to spay or neuter my dog?
    1. 5-6 months old
    2. 1 year old
    3. 18 months old
    4. After he or she is fully grown

Answers

1. False, 2. 4, 3. 2, 4. 2, 5. 2
6. False, 7. 4, 8. False, 9. 3, 10. 1